Maine kayakers take on foggy adventures at Canada’s Grand Manan Island | Column
Grand Manan Island Kayakers Navigate Fog, Seals and a Humpback Whale in Bay of Fundy Adventure
TOPSHAM/AUGUST — A week-long sea kayaking excursion by the Penobscot Paddle & Chowder Society, whose members are known as Chowderheads, wrapped up on Grand Manan Island in the Bay of Fundy with a blend of fog‑driven navigation challenges, abundant marine life and a memorable encounter with a humpback whale.
The group, led by Topsham author and outdoorsman Ron Chase, spent several days in August paddling, biking and hiking around the island’s rugged coastline. The outings offered a mix of triumph and trial, as participants contend with the Bay of Fundy’s famously volatile conditions.
On the third day of the August itinerary, several kayakers pushed north past Swallow Tail Lighthouse and along the towering cliffs of North Head. The paddle was deemed successful, though returning participants battled persistent headwinds that tested stamina and resolve.
The following day, fog became the dominant character. Launching from Ingalls Head after shuttling vehicles to Stanley Beach, the party entered the water as a thick, soupy haze blanketed the coast. Using a reliable map app and deck compass for orientation, the group hugged shorelines to maintain bearings while moderating the impact of a forecast southwest wind. The route wound east toward Ross Island, south around Indian Camp Point, through Cheney Passage and north between Ross Island and Edmunds Rock to Priest Cove. Fog obscured Great Duck Island, and another island to the east could only be guessed at in the haze, its identity lost to the dense mist.
Continuing north, the paddlers rounded Temple Hill and passed Ragged Point, where partial views of High Duck and Low Duck islands emerged between breaks in the cloud. At Dutch Ledge, a substantial colony of grey seals was found resting on rocky outcrops, vocalizing in a steady rhythm. Whether the calls served mating purposes or expressed wariness of the intruders remained unclear, but the animals’ presence added a vivid wild element to the passage.
After a respite at Woodwards Cove, the group re‑entered the fog for the final leg of that day’s voyage. Navigating northwest through Long Island Bay, poor visibility made progress arduous until Mark Nelson’s white pickup truck came into view perched on an embankment above Stanley Beach, signaling the end of a challenging but stimulating day on the water.
The next morning brought a stark contrast. The weather forecast called for light winds, sunny skies and no fog—conditions described as superb for sea kayaking. While some participants planned an ambitious 14‑mile trip along the southern and western shore, Chase, nursing a sore shoulder, opted for a shorter paddle around Long Island with companions Bruce Weik and Karin Eberhardt.
Launching from a secluded beach near Castalia Marsh, the trio found calm seas and light winds as they kayaked east to the northern tip of Long Island. What had been invisible during the previous day’s white‑out were two salmon farms operating on the island’s west side, a testament to the industry’s growth in the region in recent years. Paddling southeast along the island’s ragged outer shore, the group encountered a multitude of noisy grey seals active in the rocky ledges, their calls echoing across the water.
Further along, about a half‑mile from shore, Karin Eberhardt spotted a large, dark mass breaking the surface. Closer inspection confirmed a humpback whale, its massive form moving slowly through the bay. The kayakers lingered for several minutes, watching the gentle giant before it continued on its way without approaching the vessels. The encounter capped a day rich with wildlife sightings and left the party with lasting impressions.
As the group paddled back toward shore, they passed Dutch Ledge once more, joining other seals in the area before disembarking. Chase, reflecting on the week, called the trip one of his most memorable sea kayaking experiences on the island, noting that the combination of fog, seals and the sudden whale appearance made it unforgettable.
“We had fog, we had seals, we had a whale—all in a single week,” Chase said. “It was a genuine adventure, and one I’ll be telling friends about for a long time.”
Chase, who resides in Topsham, is the author of “The Great Mars Hill Bank Robbery” and “Mountains for Mortals – New England,” as well as the recently released “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine.” The book is available through North Country Press and online retailers.
Readers interested in more paddling stories along the Maine coast can explore Chase’s latest work or visit ronchaseoutdoors.com for additional trip reports and outdoor insights.
